Saturday, June 27, 2009
Saturday, March 21, 2009
HyTech Exhaust Racing Headers
Hytech Custom 4-1 Under Chassis Drag racing Header
We use custom HyTech Exhaust headers on all the engines we build here at Endyn. These headers have repeatedly out-performed every other header (custom or production) on the market in our dyno testing and in real-world racing applications.
Our engines are all custom-built for customers' exacting applications, requiring specialized exhaust evacuation solutions to achieve maximum efficiency.
Aside from producing a header with the highest build quality in the industry, Hytech Exhaust also works hand-in-hand with us to insure that the design meets our performance goals.
These headers have repeatedly netted 20-40+ HP more than the best production headers on the market....and that's remarkable.
HyTech Exhaust Custom Large-Tube Road-Race Header (above and below)
Prices for custom Hytech headers begin at $1375.00 each
Due to the popularity of their custom headers, HyTech Exhaust is now making production versions of many models available at reduced pricing. These production headers use investment-cast stainless steel flanges and are dimensionally identical to their custom counterparts. HyTech Exhaust was awarded a U.S. Patent for design of these headers.
At $795.00 each, these headers are unquestionably the best power per dollar investment the serious enthusiast can make.
Article from : http://www.theoldone.com/components/headers/hytech/hytech_exhaust_racing_headers.htm
Monday, March 9, 2009
B16B Spec
1. Cylinder Head - Complete port & polish
2. Exhaust Valve Spring - High-lift, dual-layered spring
3. Sparkplug - High-heat-type #7 platinum plug
4. Pistons - High-compression, low-friction, custom pistons
5. Connecting Rod - High-output, high-durability, lightened, custom conrod
6. Engine Stiffener - Aluminum die-cast, high-durability, one-piece type
7. Crankshaft - Full-balancer, 8-weight, high-output, custom crankshaft
8. Inlet Valves - Lightened inlet valves
9. Inlet Valve Springs - High-lift, flat-surfaced, dual-layered spring
10. Camshaft - Wide-angled, high-lift, high-durability camshaft
11. Intake Manifold - High-RPM type
Engine specifications between B16A vs B16B
Engine B16A vs B16B 98 Spec.R
Maximum Output: 170ps/7800rpm vs 185ps/8200rpm
Maximum Torque: 16.0kg-m/7300rpm vs 16.3kg-m/7500rpm
Bore x Stroke: 81.0x77.4mm <- same Displacement 1595cc <- same Compression: 10.4 vs 10.8
Cam Profile B16A 160ps vs 170ps B16B 98R
Different pistons are responsible for the compression ratio increases between 160ps & 170ps B16A and the 10.8 ratio for B16B.Readily apparent is the relatively modest change in piston top between B16A 160ps and B16B 170ps forthe 10.2 to 10.4 change.
However, the radically different piston top for B16B is very clear from the picture. The increase in compression ratio between B16B from B16A is 0.4.The cut-outs on the piston top to accomodate for valve lift are basically the same between all three piston.This could meant that B16B camshafts can be installed into both 160ps and 170ps B16A without the need to change to B16B pistons.
On B16B, the inlet ports are manually ported to increase air-flow.
The exhaust ports are identical to B16A.
B16B intake valve seats are at a different angle to B16A, 45 degrees vs 60 degrees.
The intake valves are also different, being lighter and having a thinner valve stem.
Integra Type-R(Through 1999 Spec)
Int-240 dur. / 11.5mm lift
Exh-235 dur. / 10.5mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: Stock B16A/GSR if using stock 8200 re-limit. Integra Type-R if using rev limit over 8200rpms. Mugen Valve Springs can also be used.
Description: These are great, reliable cams for the money. You can pick up a set for as little as $500.00 new if you are lucky! They will give good gains from midrange all the way until 8400rpms. These cams have stock idle characteristics.
Civic Type-R And Integra Type-R(Integra Type R 2000/01 Spec)
Int-243 dur. / 11.5mm lift
Exh-235 dur. / 10.5mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: Stock B16A/GSR if using stock 8200 re-limit. Integra Type-R if using rev limit over 8200rpms. Mugen Valve Springs can also be used.
Description: These are great, reliable cams for the money. You can pick up a set for as little as $550.00 new if you are lucky! They will give good gains from midrange all the way until 8400rpms. These cams have stock idle characteristics.
Skunk2 Stage 1
Int-252 dur. / 11.5mm lift
Exh-249 dur. / 10.8mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: Stock B16A/GSR if using stock 8200 re-limit. Integra Type-R if using rev limit over 8200rpms. Skunk2 Valve Springs can also be used.
Description: These are very underrated cams. They do cost around $100-$200 more than the Type-R cams but they also offer much more duration and will give more power than the Type-R cams. Similar power range of Type-R cams but stronger throughout the higher parts of the power band. This is a great set of cams for a budget minded B16A owner. These cams have stock idle characteristics. I would recommend using Skunk2 cam gears with these cams.
JUN Type 1
Int-265 dur. / 10.9mm lift
Exh-268 dur. / 10.0mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: Tough to say. I have never seen anyone use this cam. The characteristics say that a stock B16A/GSR valve spring could handle these cams for use up to 8200rpms. Any operation above that and I would use ITR valve springs or even JUN valve springs.
Description: Again, I have never seen these used. I have no clue on the power these cams will deliver but it should be similar to that of a Skunk2 Stage 1 cam, although they are very different cams. These cams have stock idle characteristics. I would recommend using JUN cam gears with these cams.
Spoon Sports
Int-256 dur. / 11.5mm lift
Exh-245 dur. / 11.1mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: Integra Type-R. If using these cams past 8800rpms(why would you) I would think that Port Flow or even Toda valve springs would work but I don’t think these cams will make much power after 8400rpm.
Description: Another somewhat rare cam. Will show definite gains over that a Type-R cam and very good gains on a stock B16A/GSR motor. Stock idle characteristics from the few users I have seen use them. I would recommend using Spoon cam gears with these cams.
JUN Type 2
Int-267 dur. / 12.0mm lift
Exh-265 dur. / 10.9mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: Integra Type-R up to 8800rpms or JUN valve springs for all operations. These cams are wild enough that you should not be using the low 8200rpms rev limit.
Description: Another rare cam but a few people have used it including JSIR. Cams will have just as much midrange gain as the big-brother JUN Type 3 but will start to slack off over 8400rpms when the Type 3’s are still making power. However, this cam will cause fewer headaches to get tuned right and does not require the fancy valvetrain and tuning of the Type 3. This is by far the most underrated cam of this whole bunch. These cams have stock idle characteristics but still offer better midrange power than the JUN Type 3 (start making power at an earlier rpm) . I recommend using JUN cam gears with these cams.
Skunk2 Stage 2
Int-266 dur. / 12.3mm lift
Exh-262 dur. / 11.8mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: Skunk2 preferred but Port Flow will work as well. These cams are wild enough that you should not be using the low 8200rpms rev limit.
Description: The new top dog of the cam world. This will become the most common aftermarket (non OEM) cam in the US when they start getting distributed more. These have a very similar power band as the JUN Type 3, with less cost and better reliability (I said the “r” word). Not huge midrange but very good gains from 7000rpms all the way to 9000rpms(peak is usually around 8200rpms). These cams have stock idle characteristics, thus making them the ultimate street/strip cam. I recommend using Skunk2 cam gears with these cams.
JUN Type 3
Int-265 dur. / 12.0mm lift
Exh-265 dur. / 11.5mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: JUN preferred but Port Flow works as well. These cams are wild enough that you should not be using the low 8200rpms rev limit.
Description: Until the Skunk2 Stage 3 this was the best high-end performing cam on the market. The JUN 3 and Toda B were the two fighting out for the top dog when it was just JUN and Toda (ahh the old days). Again, like the Skunk2 Stage 2, not huge midrange but very good gains from 7000rpms all the way to 9000rpms. These cams have stock idle characteristics, thus making them another ultimate street/strip cam. I recommend using JUN cam gears with these cams.
Skunk2 Stage 3
Int-270 dur. / 12.8mm lift
Exh-279 dur. / 11.8mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: Skunk2.
Description: A race only cam. Not to be used on the common street motor, if they are you should pull the head every so often to make sure everything is OK. This cam makes huge top-end power gains but still retains near-stock idle characteristics (weird). This cam is or has been used by Skunk2’s drag racing team and Speed World Challenge team as well. I recommend using Skunk2 cam gears with these cams.
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Following cam measured with 0mm of lift:
Civic Si(1999 Spec)
Int-265 dur. / 10.5mm lift
Exh-267 dur. / 9.6mm lift
Integra GS-R
Int-274 dur. / 10.7mm lift
Exh-276 dur. / 9.6mm lift
Crower 400
Int-279 dur. / 10.7mm lift
Exh-280 dur. / 9.6mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: Stock B16A/GSR if using stock 8200 re-limit. Integra Type-R if using rev limit over 8200rpms.
Description: This is a weird cam. I would call it an OEM replacement cam. It fits in between stock B16A/GSR cams and Type-R cams. There are not huge power gains to be had with these cams but you may notice a small difference. These cams have stock idle characteristics. I recommend using Crower cam gears with these cams.
Civic Type-R And Integra Type-R(Integra Type R 2000/01 Spec)
Int-278 dur. / 11.5mm lift
Exh-280 dur. / 10.5mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: Stock B16A/GSR if using stock 8200 re-limit. Integra Type-R if using rev limit over 8200rpms. Mugen Valve Springs can also be used.
Description: These are great, reliable cams for the money. You can pick up a set for as little as $550.00 new if you are lucky! They will give good gains from midrange all the way until 8400rpms. These cams have stock idle characteristics.
Crower 401(NA Version)
Int- 282 dur. / 11.3mm lift
Exh-277 dur. / 10.5mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: Stock B16A/GSR if using stock 8200 re-limit. Integra Type-R if using rev limit over 8200rpms. Crower Valve Springs can also be used.
Description: This cam is almost identical to the Type-R cams. A little more duration overall but that is traded off with a little less lift on the intake cam. They will have similar gains and powerband as the Type-R cams. If it were up to me I would just choose the Type-R cam based on reliability alone (there is that “r” word again). These cams will have stock idle characteristics. I would recommend using Crower cam gears with these cams.
Crower 401-T(Forced Induction Version)
Int-280 dur. / 11.8mm lift
Exh-276 dur. / 11.3mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: Crower.
Description: One of the only true boost cams for B-Series Hondas on the market. This cam is designed to prevent blow-through and to save boost. This is typically associated with lower duration and high lift but cam lobe separation is also a factor with these cams. These can be used in a NA car but they will see better gains from a cam set with more duration. Stock idle characteristics are attained from my sources. I would recommend using Crower cam gears with these cams.
Toda Spec A
Int-290 dur. / 11.6mm lift
Exh-280 dur. / 11.2mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: Integra Type-R up to 8800rpms or Toda valve springs for all operations.
Description: One of my favorite set of cams. Toda does not actually mix and match their cams but they are similarly tied when it comes to power. The Toda A will offer the midrange gain of a Type-R cam but the high-end gain(put not overall peak power) of the Toda B cam. These cams will have gains from midrange to 8800rpms with peak gains concentrated on 7000-7800rpms. These cams are great for a street motor and are really nice for cars equipped with a stock B18C5 motor (no valvetrain or ECU requirements needed). These are the only Toda cams to retain stock idle characteristics. I recommend using Toda cam gears with these cams.
Crower 402(Both Regular 402 and 402-A, 402-A is milder off VTEC)
Int-297 dur. / 11.8mm lift
Exh-287 dur. / 11.8mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: Crower.
Description: There are two 402 versions offered. The 402 is the regular version and offers better midrange power than the 402-A. Both are similar on the high end of the cam and will create similar peak power numbers. They will make peak power around 7900-8200rpms and have nice gains all the way up to 9000rpms. Stock idle is attained with the 402-A but the regular 402 will have a slightly “bumpier” idle than stock. I recommend using Crower cam gears with both sets of the 402 cam.
Toda Spec B
Int-295 dur. / 12.0mm lift
Exh-285 dur. / 12.0mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: Toda but Port Flow will work well too.
Description: My personal pick for overall street/autocross use. These cams have the most midrange gains out of any B-Series cam when they are tuned right. They have the same midrange gains of a Toda Spec C and the same top end pull as the Toda Spec A, but a little more peak power. They are in tight competition with the Skunk2 Stage 2 and JUN Type 3. Those care are more concentrated on top-end, peak power gains. The Toda B is more concentrated on midrange power with the tradeoff of a little top-end power. Toda B’s have great gains from 4500rpms all the way to 8800rpms. Power does start to dip off quickly at around 8400rpms though. Due to the wild off-VTEC profiles, these cams do have a “bumpier” idle than stock. I recommend using Toda cam gears with these cams along with a Toda or Power Enterprises timing belt.
Crower 403
Int-295 dur. / 12.0mm lift
Exh-293 dur. / 11.8mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: Crower.
Description: Crowers wildest cam. The 403 has good midrange of the 402 cam but with a little more top-end power. They will make more power above 8200rpms than the 402 cams. Like the 402, the idle will be “bumpier” due to the aggressive non-VTEC profile. I recommend using Crower cam gears with these cams.
Toda Spec C
Int-295 dur. / 12.5mm lift
Exh-295 dur. / 12.5mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: Toda
Description: The ultimate cam. This cam mixes the midrange power of the Toda B cam with the top end of similar to that of the JUN Type 3 and Skunk2 Stage 2. Power gains from 4500rpms all the way to 9000rpms. This is truly, the best overall cam for both midrange and top-end power. They might not give the top-end gains of the Skunk2 Stage 3 but you get more midrange and these cams can be used on the street with the right set-up and the deep pocketbook. Due to the crazy off-VTEC lobes the idle is rougher than stock, just like the Toda B cam. I recommend using Toda cam gears with these cams along with a Toda or Power Enterprises timing belt.
Toda Spec D
Int-305 dur. / 12.9mm lift
Exh-315 dur. / 11.9mm lift
Valve Springs to be used: Toda
Description: If you are crazy enough to be using this cam or anything wilder, then I would hope you do not need a description and know a hell of a lot more than me!
Sunday, July 27, 2008
Crank Pulley Removal For Dummies
photographer: Robert Young
Try turning the 19mm crankshaft pulley-retaining bolt and you'll do little more than turn the whole crankshaft. Notice the 50mm hexagon surrounding the bolt region? It's there for a reason.
Replacing that timing belt? Chances are a curse word or two has crossed your lips when it came time to remove the factory crankshaft pulley. Unlike other makes, honda crank pulleys are fastened with a single bolt-and a large one at that. Call it cautiousness, call it over-engineering or call it just plain smart but honda calls for roughly 130 lbft worth of bone-crushing torque when it comes to tightening these buggers down. Add to that several thousands miles worth of engine operation and years of temperature variances and you just might have the makings for one stubborn bolt.
Sure 3/4-inch impact guns and even some of the better 1/2-inch ones will do the job, sometimes, but air compressors aren't exactly stuffed in the corner of everyone's garage and fancy air tools still don't grow on trees. But honda is one step ahead of you and offers the solution to all your problems, or at least your crank pulley related ones. No air compressor required.
The answer: honda's crankshaft pulley holder locks the pulley, and ultimately the crankshaft, in place even while turning the pulley bolt.
The problem isn't your wimpy little ratchet but rather that trying to loosen the pulley bolt with your wimpy little ratchet doesn't do much more than spin the crank. Don't feel bad though, you'll get the same results with your friend's big, whopping ratchet. A number of methods have been concocted over the years to stop crank spin, none of which work all that great, like chain wrenches that usually end up marring the pulley to lodging scary objects in between the flywheel and bell housing. The solution lies with the guys who developed the pulley in the first place, and for a fraction of the cost of that new air compressor. honda's crankshaft pulley holder slips inside any '90 and newer honda pulley with a 50mm hex opening and fastens to most frames via a preexisting 8mm threaded hole. With the crank locked in place, even your wimpy little ratchet can get it to budge.
HONDA PART #: 07MAB-PY3010A
 Using one is easy. Just line up the threaded provision in the chassis with the pulley holder's hole and thread a 8x1.25mm bolt in place. |  For swaps like this H22A Civic EG though the tool will never lineup. Instead, slip something over the end of the holder's handle-say a 24mm socket and extension bar (not shown)-to lock it in place against the pavement. |
Air Filter Maintainance - Keeping It Clean
Embrace Your Inner Noob
The theory behind air filters is simple: The harder an engine has to work to suck air through one, the more fuel is wasted in the process. Replacing a dirty filter is one of the most effective ways to improve fuel economy. When using a reusable air filter-like a K&N-in a performance vehicle, it's recommended to visually inspect it every 25,000 miles or so. The filter doesn't always require cleaning though, especially if its wire screen is still visible across the entire filter, regardless of how dirty it might appear. When that screen begins to disappear, it's time for a cleaning. For best results, use a K&N Filter Care Service Kit and a low-pressure, nozzle-free garden hose. A filter cleaned in such a way will ensure a lifetime of performance.
How To Do It
Clean: Spray the cleaner onto both sides of the filter until it completely saturates its pleated material. Allow it to soak for 10 minutes, which will help loosen up the dirt-just don't let it dry.
Rinse: Use cold, low-pressure water to rinse off the cleaner. Apply the water up and down along the length of the pleats. Let gravity do its job and flush out dirt by applying water to the filter's clean side. Keep rinsing until all traces of cleaner are gone. If the filter is really dirty, it may be necessary to repeat the whole process. If dirt spots remain, spray each one directly with cleaner, give them a few minutes to soak, and rinse again.
Dry: Gently shake off the excess water and allow the filter to dry naturally or with low-pressure airflow, such as from a handheld blowdryer. Any other drying methods, like compressed air or heat guns, could damage the filter. Don't move onto the next step until the filter is bone dry.
Lube: Apply the supplied filter oil generously to the filter's dirty side only. This will give you visual reference for complete coverage. Wait 20 minutes for it to absorb and then inspect the filter's clean side for areas lighter in color. Touch up these spots by applying oil to the filter's dirty side. Continue oiling until an even red color covers both sides completely. Ensure that the oil is fully absorbed before reinstalling the filter and go squeeze that last bit of oomph out of that engine. Now get to cleaning!
Brake Bleeding Tutorial, Tips and Pictures - Bleed Brakes Like You Mean It
It isn't exactly common practice but most Hondas' brake fluid should be flushed-or bled-every 30,000 miles or so. It'll also need to be performed any time the system is opened, like when changing brake lines or swapping master cylinders or calipers. Generally, if only one corner of the vehicle or a single line is cracked open, it's only necessary to bleed that corner. However, if the system has been left open for more than a few minutes, it might be necessary to bleed each corner.
Brake bleeding isn't one of those glorified tasks recognized by anyone who happens to own a car, like an oil change or coolant top off. No, brake system bleeding is easy to overlook and its symptoms can be gradual, even subtle, like a sinking or soft pedal or excessive brake steer. Perhaps the reason brake system bleeding is often overlooked is because of the procedure's difficulty. You simply can't drain the master cylinder reservoir and dump in a pint of fresh fluid-this just doesn't satisfy Honda's recommendation and, if it did, we'd likely see just as many drive-through brake flush shops as we do quick lubes. The procedure lies with the entire system-not just the master cylinder-where air bubbles, even sediments, can be trapped within the fluid, impairing proper operation and ultimately how well a car can stop.
There are four ways to bleed a brake system: the most common is the two-person manual method but there's also the single-person manual, pressure, and vacuum methods. No matter which one you choose, begin by removing the master cylinder reservoir cap and strainer. Stir the reservoir fluid to allow sediment or particles to float in suspension and remove them with a turkey baster or vacuum bleeder. Use a lint-free rag to wipe down the reservoir walls and strainer of any remaining sediment and dirt. You may need to repeat this a couple of times. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid-Honda DOT 3 brake fluid (part number 08798-9008) works well, although there are other options. It's important to note that brake fluid is a solvent and also works well as a paint remover. Clean up spills with water as quickly as possible if you value that paint job.
Bleeding Sequence
Hondas have four bleeder screws-one at each caliper or drum-but you can only do one at a time. Always start with the caliper (or drum) farthest from the master cylinder working your way back to the closest one and be sure to top off the master cylinder periodically to avoid running dry. The sequence is as follows: right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
 When bleeding brakes, it's important not to force the brake pedal down more than halfway. This runs the risk of driving the master cylinder's secondary piston through debris collected on the piston cylinder walls. In other words, you could end up shopping for a new master cylinder shortly after you're done bleeding those brakes. |  There are two reasons you might need to bleed your brakes: Either the fluid is old, dirty, and discolored, or you've got air bubbles in your lines. Either way, be sure and suck the master cylinder reservoir dry and clean it out thoroughly before pouring in new fluid. |  It's important to keep the master cylinder reservoir topped off during the entire bleeding procedure. Pumping a dry brake system could lead to other failures. Quickly tip a bottle of brake fluid over the master cylinder reservoir and leave it in place during the procedure. This will keep you from having to periodically refill the reservoir. |
Brake bleeder valves are often stubborn to remove. Their exposure to the elements is often enough to ensure a difficult removal. Always use a closed-end or box-end wrench to prevent stripping the valve. Honda brake system bleeder valves are self-sealing but do require a bit of anti-seize in order to prevent them from freezing in place. A bit of anti-seize and making sure to use a line wrench will ensure against these stripping out on you.
Two-Person Manual Bleeding
Two-person bleeding is by far the most common method and can be performed in any home garage without specialized tools. It does, however, require another person's help. Begin by cleaning the old fluid from the reservoir and either turn a full bottle of fresh fluid upside down onto the reservoir or make sure the reservoir is constantly topped off. Now is the time you need to find that extra person. Have him sit in the vehicle and pump the brake pedal several times to build pressure and remove the brake assist reserve. Open the bleeder valve and have your assistant pump the pedal four times, holding it down on the fourth pump until you re-tighten the valve closed. Don't lift off that pedal until the valve's tightened. Make sure the vacuum line drains into a bucket and repeat the process until a steady stream of fluid flows from the valve. Perform this step at each corner, several times until new fluid is visible. The process purges air from the system and as such will spurt and hiss fluid out until completely bled. A solid stream of clean fluid indicates the job is done at that particular corner. Be sure the person pumping the pedal does so no more than halfway to the floor. If it's pushed too far, you run the risk of driving the master cylinder's secondary piston across sediments or deposits that may have collected on the piston cylinder walls. This can permanently and quickly damage piston seals and cause leaks. Place a small block of wood underneath the brake pedal to ensure this doesn't happen.
Bleeding brakes yourself is easy. All you need is a short section of vacuum line and an empty water bottle. Fill the bottle with fresh brake fluid, submerge one end of the vacuum line in it, and connect its other end to the bleeder valve. Open the valve and pump the brake pedal a good 25 times to release any air bubbles. When you're done, re-tighten the valve and move to the next wheel.
Single-Person Manual Bleeding
Single-person manual bleeding is another do-it-at-home, at-the-track, no-help from-a-friend, kind of job. You'll still need that piece of vacuum hose along with a clean, 20-ounce, clear plastic bottle. Begin by filling the bottle with about 2 inches of clean brake fluid and connect the vacuum hose to the brake caliper bleeder fitting. Next insert the hose into the bottle, making sure it touches the bottom, fully submerged within the fluid. Position yourself in the driver seat and pump the pedal approximately 25 times using slow, controlled pumps, being sure not to pass the halfway point. Repeat the procedure for each caliper (or drum) in the specified sequence.
It's important to replace this small rubber cap when finished bleeding the valve. The cap prevents debris from entering the bleeder orifice and clogging the valve.
Pressure Bleeding
Pressure bleeding is generally reserved for the pros. The process is quick but involves pricey equipment. Connect an air hose to the pressurized bleeding machine, which regulates brake fluid pressure. It works by running new brake fluid through a hose with a fitted cap that seals to the master cylinder's reservoir top so new brake fluid is forced in while pushing out the old. The machine does the work but someone still has to perform the normal bleeding sequence, opening the bleeder valves to catch the old fluid with a small suction line usually provided with the machine. The process is simple and quick, yet expensive and unpractical.
Expensive machinery like this professional brake bleeding machine make quick work of brake system jobs but are really unnecessary for the do-it-yourselfer. Really, all you need is a 10mm wrench, a bucket, and a friend with some time on his hands.
Vacuum Bleeding
Vacuum bleeding is cheaper than pressure bleeding but still requires a specialized vacuum pump, and sometimes an air compressor. Begin by removing the old fluid with the pump's suction end, cleaning sediment from the reservoir. Open a new container of fluid and turn it upside down onto the reservoir-it won't overflow if you're quick. When performing the normal bleeding sequence, suck the old fluid through the brake caliper bleeder until new fluid is visible. Note: Never allow the brake fluid that is in the reservoir to fall below the minimum mark, despite what method you're using-this can damage the master cylinder's internals.
Brake Bleeding Tutorial, Tips and Pictures - Bleed Brakes Like You Mean It
How You Know It's Right
A properly bled brake system will yield a firm, consistent brake pedal feel. To double-check for a properly bled system simply look to the master cylinder. Remove the cover while an assistant pumps the pedal several times, holding it down on the final pump. Observe brake fluid squirts within the master cylinder as the pedal is quickly released. The fluid should squirt no higher than 3 inches from the fluid's surface. A well-bled system is sometimes the only difference between your car stopping behind the car in front of you or underneath the car in front of you. Improperly bled systems have also led to the false assumption that some monster-sized rotor and multi-piston caliper set is needed when, in reality, a $5 bottle of fluid will often do the trick.
No Refills!
Just because your brake master cylinder reservoir is low doesn't necessarily mean you should top it off with fresh fluid. As brake pads wear, pistons move outward in order to maintain an equal distance between the pads and rotor. As such, as pads wear, the brake fluid level drops in order to compensate for the increased displacement. If the pads are known to be in new condition, it's time to look for a leak.
Which Dot Is Right For Me?
There are four different types of DOT-certified brake fluids to choose from, however, the higher number fluid isn't always what you need:
DOT 3: This is the most common fluid. DOT 3 fluid absorbs approximately 2 percent moisture per year, which isn't a good thing by the way since moisture absorbed through microscopic seams and cracks can corrode the system and thicken the fluid. This is partially why brake system bleeding is recommended every 30,000 miles. DOT 3 has a dry boiling point of 401 degrees F and a wet boiling point of 284 degrees F.
DOT 4: Although twice as expensive, DOT 4 fluid absorbs far less moisture than DOT 3, has a dry boiling point of 446 degrees F, and a wet boiling point of 311 degrees F. DOT 4 and DOT 3 fluids can be mixed together.
DOT 5: Silicone-based brake fluids like DOT 5 do not absorb moisture at all and, as such, can't be mixed with DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluids. When switching to DOT 5 it's important to flush the entire system at least a few times. DOT 5 fluids exhibit much higher boiling points but are not compatible with most Hondas since they aren't ABS friendly. DOT 5 fluids easily absorb air bubbles that can negatively effect ABS systems and braking in general. Few Hondas should be using DOT 5 fluids.
DOT 5.1: Unlike DOT 5, this fluid is non-silicone-based and has a boiling point over 500 degrees F and can be mixed with DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids. These three fluids are all clear in color, while DOT 5 fluid is purple.